By Peggy Li

2022 was the China-Italy Year of Culture and Tourism, Italian food producers saw their exports to China drop almost 30 percent from the previous year. This should come as no surprise. The pandemic has meant few opportunities for travel between the two countries and import costs have been hit hard over the past three years. 

But there is one category of Italian food brands that have managed to weather China’s COVID-19 storm (at least, better than others): luxury. 

“The market for luxury Italian foods hasn’t really been impacted. Things like truffles and wine see constant demand, and, even with rising prices, we’ve seen increased demand,” says Francesco Ye, founder of iTaste, an agency that promotes Italian eco gastronomy.

With an understanding that with movement restricted until six months, it has been difficult for the Chinese consumer to be immersed in Italian culture — an essential prerequisite for firms trading on history, pedigree, and tradition. Yet till today flights to Europe only resume at 30% of their previous level in & out of China, coupled with the visa application. The recovery is going to take a while, with a forecast among the industry to have a leap bounce by the end of Q1 2024. 

This led to a change in operations. Many saw the potential of China’s vibrant online ecosystem. The idea was that digital initiatives could lay the foundations for elevating product/brand awareness. In this process — more connected and interactive than conservative approaches — these labels witnessed firsthand how a nation’s changing tastes could inform both branding and campaigns.

“The development of the presence of Italian products on e-commerce platforms in China has allowed many Italian producers to grow in China even without being able to travel and to deliver their products directly,” explains Massimiliano Tremiterra, trade commissioner at the Italian Trade Agency’s Guangzhou office.

But unlike mass-market brands, many exclusive Italian food producers also worked with specialized importers, who were vital to industry leaders in navigating the ever-evolving China market.

“These professionals have allowed us to maintain a constant presence on both public channels [such as restaurants] and private ones, like events and dinner parties,” affirms Albiera Antinori, president of wine company Marchesi Antinori. She adds that a social media presence on channels like WeChat and Xiaohongshu (China’s Instagram) also played a key role in keeping business communication activities alive throughout the adverse time.

Though since China’s doors reopen six months ago, the number of Chinese travelers to the country is on the rise but still only at the rate of 20% in comparison to pre-pandemic. 

So how has China’s palate evolved?

For many Chinese gourmands, their experience of fine Italian food comes from restaurants. Of course, the pandemic crippled the restaurant industry. 

One might expect that, cut off from both the country itself and its representative establishments, the public taste might have changed. Antinori disagrees: If anything, absence makes the heart grow fonder. “Exactly because people haven’t been able to travel, I think there has been an increased desire for Italian food and gastronomy.”

And with that of China’s six Michelin-starred Italian restaurants, three have received stars in the last two years, showing that demand here might only be getting started. “It is a way to experience a bit of Italy without traveling. Some luxury restaurants such as Da Vittorio or 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo offer a range of beautiful products and dishes, and a great atmosphere as well,” remarks Richard Krystkowiak, managing director of Sopexa China, a communication agency focused on food and beverage brands. This fondness for quality — borne from years of isolation — is good news.

And it isn’t the only unexpected upside. The increased scrutiny for food safety that followed the outbreak has benefitted purveyors of fine Italian products. “The Chinese consumer is increasingly attentive to the quality of the product. And they are better able to recognize products that enjoy quality certificates such as PDO and PGI marks,” observes Tremiterra. He notes that Italy’s trade agency has been active throughout COVID with information campaigns aimed at educating the Chinese public on the finer aspects of Italian gastronomy. It’s worked.

The demand for Italian Gastronomy will continue to rise as per the recent inauguration of ASIA 50 BEST restaurants and AISA 50 BEST Bars, both prestige awards hosted their event in HONG KONG. This offers a confidence boost to the consumer demand for the products and the Italian wine and alcoholic beverage will return to the market with good demand.

China is hungry to eat again!